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CRIME STOPPER NEWS The following thefts, vandalism and burglaries were reported in Ramsey during the month of July. If you have any information about these incidents, call 427-1410 and do your part to stop crime. Date 7-1 7-2,3 7-3 7-3 7-4 7-5 7-6 7-7 7-8 7-8 7-10 7-13 7-13 7-14 7-14 7-14 7-15 7-16 7-17 7-18 7-20 7-21 7-21 7-21 7-22 7-22 7-23 7-23 7-23 7-23 7-24 7-25 7-25 7-26 7-28 7-29 lJ Location 6140 Hwy. 10 165XX Zirconium 8130 152nd Lane 179XX Yakima 73XX 150th Lane Trott Brook Gospel Hall 174XX Driscoll 156XX Yakima 143XX Armstrong 176XX Argon 158XX Variolite 76XX 166th Avenue 154XX Nowthen 168XX Sodium 79XX Hwy. 10 71 XX 160th Lane 82XX 159th Lane 143XX Ramsey Blvd. 171 XX Willemite Rum River Central Park Food 'N' Fuel 145XX Waco 52XX 156th Lane 159XX Potassium 176XX Marmoset 84XX 163rd Avenue 169XX Neon 89XX 181st Avenue 162XX Ferret 161 XX Ferret 6745 Hwy. 10 148XX Xkimo Food 'N' Fuel 6106 Hwy. 10 180XX Vanadium 6745 Hwy. 10 Description Theft of tools and lawn ornaments. Vandalism. Damage to property. Theft of property. Theft of property. Vandalism and theft. Theft from vehicle. Vandalism. Theft of building materials. Theft of boat. Damage to property. Theft of skateboards. Theft of bicycle. Vandalism to mailbox. Theft of boat motor. Gas siphoning. Damage to yard. Burglary. Damage to property. Vandalism. No pay on gas. Vandalism. Theft from vehicle. Theft of bicycle. Theft of bicycle. Theft of bicycles. Damage to mailbox. Theft of dog kennel. Vandalism. Vandalism. Theft of gas. Vandalism. No pay on gas. Damage to trailer. Damage to garbage can. Theft of gas. BREAKING THE LANDFILL HABIT COMPOSTING To start a backyard compost heap, collect leaves, grass, vegetable and fruit scraps, etc. in a conve- nient spot out of the wind and direct sunlight. Sprinkle a layer of soil over the organic wastes. Water the heap until it is damp. Enclose the heap with chicken wire, cement blocks, snow fence, wood slats, etc., to keep the compost in one place. Turn the heap every few days to have finished compost in a month or so. Without turning, heap will take about a year to compost properly. Add organic materials as they become available. Keep the heap damp. As wastes decay, their volme will reduce by about 70 percent. The compost is ready to use when it is dark and crumbly like rich soil. OAK WILT AND DUTCH ELM DISEASE CAN BE CONTROLLED BY 'GOOD NEIGHBOR' POLICY Citizens, as you may have noticed, some Red Oak trees are browning and wilting. They are in stark con- trast with the greenery. This browning and wilting of tree extremities is a symptom of a fungus disease that blocks the sap from circulating. Fungus spores form on summer's dying trees, grow and split the bark to release spores that can float on the wind and anchor themselves in the rup- tures of other Red Oaks; ruptures caused from storm damage, mechanical injury or untimely pruning. It is very important to prune in late November or early December, cleaning pruners after each cut. The bark of a tree is like our skin -- the first line of defense. More certainly than disease spreading by wind blown spores, is the transfer of spores in the sap of a diseased tree, through root grafts underground, to a healthy tree. When Red Oak trees are adjacent, their roots may overlap underground and form a graft for direct exchange of sap. So often we see an ex- panding ring of wilted trees; this is caused by fungus progressing through the roots of adjoining trees. Many times the wilting tree can be near a proper- ty boundary. In this situation, your neighbor has a well justified concern for the health of his trees and timely action can lessen the probability of spreading the disease. Trenching, with a motorized cable trencher, can be planned to cut the roots usually within two feet of the surface. In this manner, the diseased tree can be isolated. The tree should then be cut down and the brush disposed of a the County diseased tree disposal site at 133rd Avenue and Hanson Blvd. (757-3920). The disposal fee for diseased Oak and Dutch Elm is $2.50/half ton; leaves and grass clipp- ings may also be disposed of at this site free of charge. The wood from the cut down tree may be saved for firewood if it is promptly cut into firewood length, split and stacked in a sunny, airy place not near other healthy Oaks. This procedure will dry the wood so the fungus spores cannot fruit and release. Recently wilted trees with tight bark are hazardous for spore formation. Trees with loose and falling bark that have died from oak wilt in previous years are not a spore hazard. The City Tree Inspector may be calling on some of you to remind you that your own disease control responsibilities impact favorably on your neighborhood trees. Ramsey has a voluntary pro- gram that depends on sharing a point-of-view about the virtue, beauty, utility and value of the health of our "urban forest". Please make an effort to realize that one's own wilting Elms and Oaks require prompt removal and disposal in the interest of disease con- trol and maintenance of adjoining trees, especially those across neighboring property boundaries. Think of tree maintenance like changing the oil in your car or recycling; it is done in order to prevent problems. The prevention of the spread of Dutch Elm disease is more difficult because the Dutch Elm Beetle spreads the fungus when it flies on the wind to feed on other Elms. Dutch Elm Beetles are very small, flying insects about the size of a pencil point. They live and breed under the tight bark of dead and dy- ing Elms. To control Elm disease, beetle breeding sites must be disposed of. Even Elm firewood can harbor beetles and larva that will move to the nearest convenient Elm and that begins the spore coloniza- tion of another Elm tree. If you have any questions or would like more in- formation regarding tee health, please call the City Tree Inspector, Bruce Bacon, at 753-5099 and leave a message on his recorder-phone. He will return your call and/or schedule a visit to your property if necessary. .j I I Composting is organic "recycling" that turns leaves, grass clippings, fruit and vegetable scraps and other organic wastes into a valuable soil conditioner. When com posted and added to gardens, these organic wastes loosen heavy soils, improve plant root growth and help hold water and nutrients where plants can use them. About 20% of normal household trash consists of organic wastes than can be composted. When these wastes are buried as garbage, they fill up scarce landfill space, and their decay can speed the seepage of household chemical wastes in garbage into ground water. There are four ingredients needed for an effective compost heap: 1. Organic materials such as vegetable and fruit scraps, straw, coffee grounds, egg shells, leaves, sawdust, weeds, small amounts of wood ash, and plant trimmings. 2. Nitrogen-rich materials such as alfalfa, clover, grass trimmings and fresh plant clippings. If these materials are not available, a cup of high-nitrogen garden fertilizer per cubic yard of compost can be used. (Do not use fertilizer containing insect or weed killers). 3. Soil. 4. Water. Don't use meat, bones, grease, fat, oils, paper, whole branches or logs, dairy products, plastics, syn- thetic fibers, human or pet wastes, or diseased plants. A 1 to 3 inch layer of compost can be mixed into garden or field soil. Wait one month before planting to allow full conditioning of the soil. Compost and soil can be mixed and spread around the base of plants and crops already growing. Finely sifted com- post can be placed on flower gardens. Compost can be used for houseplants after sterilizing it by baking it at 180 degrees for 30 minutes on an outdoor grill. A properly maintained compost heap will have little, if any, odor. A heap that is too wet or compacted may smell, but turning the compost frequently should eliminate the odor. Maintaining a ratio of 3 parts organic material to 1 part nitrgen-rich material in the heap will also help. Rodents and pets won't be at- tracted if the organic material is well mixed and meat scraps aren't included. If flies appear, cover the heap with a layer of soil. For faster composting, build the heap in layers; 2-3 inches of organic material; 1-2 inches of nitrogen- rich material or 1 cup of fertilizer per cubic yard of compost; 1-2 inches soil. To continue composting in the winter, keep the heap warm by covering it with an extra layer of grass, hay or straw or by building it against a protective wall or in a pit in the ground. The three bin method permits several batches of organic material to be composted simultaneously. As the compost becomes more decayed, it is turn- ed into ihe next bin, allowing a new batch to be started in the empty bin. This system works best in spring and summer when nitrogen-rich wastes can be added to speed up composting and when more compost is needed for planting and mulching. Composting systems can be designed to serve a neighborhood, city or county. Backyard and com- munity composting are an important step towards reducing the amount of garbage we bury in Min- nesota's landfills.